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Forum Index > Rifles general discussion > Removal of Epoxied Ring Base--How?

Removal of Epoxied Ring Base--How?

23 Oct 2025
@ 04:20 am (GMT)

Calin Brabandt

I was having trouble with my 40 MOA EGW base shooting loose on my Bergara B-14 HMR in 300 PRC using just Loctite on the screws so, per "The Practical Guide To Bolt Action Rifle Accurizing And Maintenance", I bonded it to the receiver with epoxy. My barrel is now past its prime (300 PRC barrels don't last long) and the action wrench won't fit until I remove the base and any remaining epoxy residue. Does anyone have any tip or a method?

The aluminum EGW picatinny rail should conduct heat to the epoxy well so I was thinking maybe I'd apply heat using propane torches to the rail and then using a mallet and a large rectangular "punch" of some kind, up through the bottom of the loading port, to pop base off. I suspect that removing the epoxy residue without damaging the finish (Cerakote on the receiver, I think) will be even more challenging. The EGW base is anodized, of course.

Thanks, Cal

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23 Oct 2025
@ 06:05 am (GMT)

Nathan Foster

Re: Removal of Epoxied Ring Base--How?
Hi Calin, yes,. sounds like it had to be done. If the base does not have even contact, it will rattle loose. A heavy torque setting on the screws merely strains the threads and copious amounts of loctite can end up in the barrel threads. A small and even shim of epoxy is the best option provided it is kept clear of the screw holes.

To remove the base, use a block of wood as a drift. Strike the block from the front and or sides, a good rapid jolt with a hammer, just as would be done if removing the receiver from a bedding job.

Once its off, soak the epoxy in acetone / nail polish remover. Apply and reapply, work it in, then attempt to remove using a piece of bone (from a roast) sharpened to a chisel point.

Hope that helps. All the best.
23 Oct 2025
@ 07:59 am (GMT)

Calin Brabandt

Re: Removal of Epoxied Ring Base--How?
Thanks Nathan! I'll try it. Should I use any heat (propane flame or other)?

I've had to learn a number of new tricks with stuff shaking loose on this rifle. I have a new suppressor and it starts to loosen after less than 10 rounds, even after tightening it as tight as possible when hot (hand-tight only, per the operating manual) . It's only an issue during matches and other shooting events but I learned from Silencer Central tech support to use high quality Teflon tape (Blue Monster brand). Exactly two layers of this tape on the muzzle threads with no overlap completely solved the problem. I would have never thought of it, because the barrel/suppressor temperatures greatly exceed the rating of the Teflon tape, but the tapes gets kind of gummy and keeps the suppressor from rotating loose. It's actually pretty easy to remove the used tape after removing the direct-threaded suppressor too.

I keep forgetting to attend your live chat sessions. I hope you have another one soon.

BTW, I took my "Maxis" (long action Savage Axis II converted to 358 Norma) Moose hunting a few years ago. My hunting partner was successful. He's getting on in age so I gave him the only opportunity we had, but he gave me half the meat and all the bones for my family's dogs so the dogs and I were successful too!

The 358 Norma conversion has been flawless in the 100 rounds or more I've fired from it. I installed the pillars in its Boyd's wood stock but still haven't bedded it yet--hopefully I'll draw another Moose tag someday soon and be motivated to finish it. I been shooting a 250gr. Oryx hand load too. I resized 300 Win Mag cases for my Norma-spec chamber. It was chambered by Shaw Barrels. I went with 1:14 twist. I did the hot bluing myself and it turned out great too.

Thanks for your help with all my projects via your books, videos and this forum!

Cal
Peck, Idaho
23 Oct 2025
@ 08:04 am (GMT)

Calin Brabandt

Re: Removal of Epoxied Ring Base--How?
>Exactly two layers of this tape on the muzzle threads with no overlap

To clarify...the two layers of Teflon tape overlap each other but I cut the tape accurately and square with a sharp knife or razor blade for zero additional overlap beyond the two layers. I found that any random length of "remainder" overlap greatly affects the POI.
23 Oct 2025
@ 08:35 am (GMT)

Nathan Foster

Re: Removal of Epoxied Ring Base--How?
Hi Cal, I don't normally use heat, just a good shock.

I had wondered how you got on with that .358. Good to hear.
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