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Hi Brian, regarding the books, they each tie into the other. A most important factor is that the books afford me a level of privacy to speak candidly about BS within the entire spectrum of the industry including cost cutting within rifle brands all the way up to issues with the so called top level shooters. The books have qualified statements unlike a forum thread or email where there is only so much space and time to give explanations. Rifles - fundamental understanding of the rifle, various br..

Hi Francis, will break these options down a bit: 1. Order a new cap for the Lee die (cap threads may be damaged but the die threads will be fine). Also order a spare mandrel while you are at it. Note that some importers or retailers stock these parts. Otherwise, order direct from Lee. 2. Redding neck bushing die. I do not know what size bushing you need as I do not know how much spring back you are getting. You will need to measure your current sized ammo if you have any sized ammo that is holdi..

Hey guys been awhile. Sorry to drag up this old thread... But I’ve just run into this very problem! Will look at the shell holder first. Having got to the bottom and work my way to the top. Bit of info. 7x57 fire formed with trail boss. Went to neck size with my lee neck sizer. The first 18 no problem then they won’t size. Bullet won’t seat and falls through. It’s Norma brass and new. Looks like here we go again. Cheers.

Following on from a discussion in hunting stories, here's what I consider some design types. General information wise.... Firstly, Nathan's big hunter. He's covered this in good detail in various other threads, so nothing from me about it here. Here's what I consider a 'commonly sized' (for want of a better word) hunter. It's got some features that I like such as a sharp point supported by a good triangle of metal, lots of skinning curve exaggerated slightly by a recurved belly. The handle is al..

a thread right up my alley...... having PLAYED rather a lot with the 7.62x39mm including heaps of subsonic stuff I have SOME idea what Im talking about. the best projectile I found and others who have used it agree....is a 151grn hollow point cast......when I say hollow point...its a ho ho hollow point.looks like a power point .22lr the ONLY one I ve recovered from head shot sheep was 13mm across. for VERY close range headshooting they are awesome...for finishing off animals without blasting you..

Paul, What I meant was, what if you want to minimize jump to, say, .010? Maybe that's just not done. I like your idea. I've been following this thread, trying to decide if I want a new hobby. I'm wondering why there's no mention of a comparator. Seems like it would be a useful tool if you want to test an assortment of bullets.

Hi Guys, just got a tikka t3x in 6.5, broke in as per nathans instructions. Shot half inch with factory hornady 140eldm, stoked! I need it suppressed. Got it threaded by I thought reputable Smith, didn't shorten the barrel at all just thread, nice wide thread for barrel 9/16. All looks good, back to range, same box of ammo, groups grown to 1.25 moa without suppressor, tending to string a little side to side, suppressed it strings vertically. you change anything on a barrel there will be changes ..

Robert has the larger Lee Classic Cast Press (different to the anniversary kit). I quite like this press as it can be used with .50 BMG or any other oversized oddball dies, has been a joy to own and use. However, one can just as easily get good results with the smaller press. Some good advice and support in this thread.

Interesting about using Stockholm tar to prevent mold. Gun stock oil I have made from a popular recipe is to use boiled linseed oil, 2 parts to 1 part gum turpentine (not mineral turpentine ) Before boiled linseed was available you needed to boil the oil yourself on the kitchen stove (while the chef is away for the day) and add the gum turpentine without it all catching on fire. Stockholm tar is a great substitute for anti-seize compound on bolt threads in severe applications. I once had to help..

Were I hunting a brushy area, in a downpour, where I knew no shot in excess of 75 yards would present itself, I might be tempted to carry the 12 guage with iron sights, rather than a scoped rifle . . . but not for its brush-busting capability, nor for its knockdown capability. I've shot small deer at close range with that thing that ran 50 to 100 yards. I didn't know about the shoulder-shot, though. I learned about that on here. My point was that you have to thread the needle, regardless of the ..

I'm working on a Rem sps tact. 308. Set up is b/c stock (no bedding yet), timmey trigger, and sightron scope. I have gone through the steps and after the first firing was amazed of the tight grouping that the gun was giving me. I give much graditude to Nathan and all that share here. My issue is I'm finding the cases are getting scratch or gouge from the magzine and notice a heavy bolt push to chamber a round. Has anyone come across this or lead me to a thread if already posted. thank you

Sorry to butt into this thread, but I am new to this and I think my question is relevant. I too have a Vanguard in .243 (which I love) and I would like to improve its stock/accuracy. Question: Can I free float the stock's fore-end? If so, do I clearance all along the barrel, including the fore-end stock and under barrel support? I have heard the Vanguard needs this support from the stock. Is that true? Thanks, Paul.

Good article.