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Tikka T3 Pillar question

04 Sep 2015
@ 11:53 am (GMT)

Mark McClure


Just about to start a bedding job on a Tikka T3 223 lite. I will be putting pillars in but have found that the ally rod I have is slightly larger that the trigger guard holes. The trigger guard/base plate is plastic with some washers imbedded in it. I could expand the holes so that the pillars meet the washers instead of the plastic, OR find some better sized tube that fits OR not worry about this and allow the plastic to be sandwiched between the pillar and the action screw.

What are your collective thoughts on this please.




04 Sep 2015
@ 11:01 pm (GMT)

Ben Law

Re: Tikka T3 Pillar question
when i did mine i removed a small bit of plastic from around the washers so the pillars would clear and meet up with the washers, but it was only a very small amount, maybe 1mm removed for memory.

if i was doing it again i would use an after market replacement aluminium bottom metal.
there is one made now by atlasworkx or someone, if you go that way just make sure you get the right one as they also make a different one that is for AI mags.
05 Sep 2015
@ 12:38 am (GMT)

Mark McClure

Re: Tikka T3 Pillar question
Thanks Ben,

After looking at it again, and thinking it through, the plastic must be removed otherwise it is pointless butting a pillar in.

Aftermarket bottom metal is out just now trying to save some $.



PS.... how did you remove the recoil lug..?
05 Sep 2015
@ 06:04 am (GMT)

Ben Law

Re: Tikka T3 Pillar question
ok, well theres plenty of accurate tikka's, i dont hear many complaints about the plastic guard so they obviously do they job.

do you mean remove the recoil lug from the the stock? i just pulled it out with some pliers.
its another cost but you might want to look at an after market stainless lug, sometimes the factory aluminium lugs can become indented, its only a 223 so u might be ok but if it does then the fix would require re-bedding.

also have a good read of nathans accurizinging and mantenance book regarding the recoil lug setup for the t3 if you haven't already.
07 Sep 2015
@ 10:14 pm (GMT)

Nathan Foster

Re: Tikka T3 Pillar question
Hi Mark, be a bit careful with the plastic on the floor plate as it is possible to destroy the entire system.

Work through the bottom of the following page, then see how Ben did his job on the following page:
09 Sep 2015
@ 08:06 am (GMT)

Mark McClure

Re: Tikka T3 Pillar question

That link just takes me to the forum page?

I did go ahead and remove material from around the washer, less that a mm. The washer is still in place, the pillars fit and I am confident that it is the right approach. Sandwiching a piece of plastic between pillars and action screws may have altered the torque required. Once the plastic is removed I can go the full 55lbs.

By the way the recoil lug was VERY hard to remove. After marring the top I had to dig it out and turn it upside down to get the clean face against the action.

Have been all over the accurizing book and adjusted my cleaning technique. Now I need to stabilise the 7-08 and bed/stabilise the 300RUM..... going to be a busy expansive few weeks. Already spent money on a Sightron after reading the forum. Should have that on the RUM by the end of the week.



13 Sep 2015
@ 01:40 pm (GMT)

tim bugg

Re: Tikka T3 Pillar question
i have replaced the lug on my T3 with a titanium one and it tightened up the group by another 30 to 40% was amazing. Also bedded mine, MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE ENOUGH FROM ROUND LUG so compound can squeeze out round it or lug doesnt seat properly and its a messy and long job then to start all over !
01 Nov 2015
@ 10:10 pm (GMT)

Chris Bayley

Re: Tikka T3 Pillar question
My lug was basically corroded in place and appeared ready to resist all pulling attempts:

I sprayed on some WD40 and left the stock in the light sun to warm/expand and let the WD40 work in. After a couple of hours and a single tug with some pipe grips it came away first time.
It's looking a bit beaten up tho:

Standard indent on the front face, light plier marks on the front and rear edge, but a big gouge on the top surface where the previous owner has obviously reassembled incorrectly and actioned has recoiled across the top of the lug (confirmed by a threaded imprint on the rear of the action screw holes)
I'll bet it wasn't grouping too good that day!
22 Jan 2016
@ 05:35 am (GMT)

Chris Bayley

Re: Tikka T3 Pillar question
So I'm mid preparation for my pillar bedding job and this question has occurred to me:
I have an after market recoil lug /pillar kit, the pillars are the exact size required to set the height properly. If I bed to the pillars exactly then when the release compound comes off I have lost any ability to torque down any pressure on the bedding compound. Should I therefore relieve the pillars slightly ?
I have seen reference to pillars being covered by a full layer of bedding compound but in this case they delivered full length. I am thinking to tape relieve them thus enabling proper pressure to be developed on the bedding compound.
Thoughts ??


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