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Savage 110 Bedding questions

18 Nov 2013
@ 11:30 pm (GMT)

Brandon Maxwell

I have searched the site as best I could to try and not beat a dead horse, so hope it was not covered elsewhere. Received my three bedding kits and have a couple of starter questions. Loved the book by the way. The part where you worked on the fancy expensive rifle to get it to shoot just as good as an economical factory rifle had me almost in tears. Currently trying to scrape the funds for the new e-book. I am flat dead broke right now, but I will try and send some cash via donation as well, as much as I can spare.

Not sure if I have the chatter problem you mentioned in other posts since I think accuracy is going down. Had a 1/4 inch group and it went away. Not sure if it is me as a rookie reloader. I am trying to do things to insure consistency. Should I try to finish load development to determine if the barrel needs replacing first or will bedding first to determine need to be re-barreled be the right order? I'd hate to do the work for nothing.

I found a replacement trigger called Rifle Basix sav2 and it does not protrude out to the end of the tang. Have it installed and I love it. It shames the Accutrigger. I would like to do a full length job, do you think I could have a machine shop run the trigger guard screw up into the tang? If so should I keep the middle action screw? (Thinking yes.) The reason I ask is because you mention heavy barreled savages and your desire to bed a good 2 to 3 inches to take stress off of the action. Would this allow me to bed the action only and stop at the barrel nut so that I could simply change barrels and never have to worry about re-bedding?

If I must bed beyond the nut do I mask it off completely since it has the groves or can I fill the groves with putty and tape the front of the nut and the front ridge of the action since it is flat and abrupt for relief to allow for forward movement and return to battery?

Thanks for your time, books, and products.


19 Nov 2013
@ 03:06 pm (GMT)

Nathan Foster

Re: Savage 110 Bedding questions
Hi Brandon, Ok, to test the rifle without bedding, you need to perform a five minute mock bedding job. I will email this through to you.

Work up basic loads and if the rifle proves reasonably consistent, then you can set about bedding. The type of accuracy we are looking for here is under 1"- but not sub half inch groups. bedding and final load work will tweak groups. All we are looking for here is potential problems with the bore- such as group sizes ranging from 1.5 to 3" after basic load work that may indicate bore problems that will limit final accuracy.

I am concerned about fitting a screw and bedding the tang. I would need to have the job in front of me to see how this will affect the tang safety operation. Furthermore, even with more tang exposed with the trigger unit sitting forwards, the actual tang area is still very small- even smaller if a screw is fitted. So I am not too sure about this. I would prefer to speak from experience rather than offer a potentially incorrect opinion.

As for barrel bedding considerations. I tend to bed into the barrel channel. When barrel number two is fitted later on, I will free float the second barrel and see how it shoots. Often, the results are quite fine and we can get away with it. Sometimes we need to rebed. So this is a one step at a time type deal.

Use electrical tape on the barrel nut during bedding.



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