|
|
|
Discussion Forums
Forum Index
> Precision long range hunting and shooting
> .308 vs. 30-06
.308 vs. 30-06
@ 05:08 pm (GMT) |
Cameron BoydI'm relatively new to the shooting game and was wondering what your thoughts were in regard to .308 vs 30-06 as a long range calibre. I want a .30 cal platform to sink my teeth into without going to a magnum calibre ( I simply can't afford to rebarrel my rifle annually). I realise platform wise there are endless rigs chambered in .308 but that's not to much of a concern what I'm more interested in is long range capability. I've googled the subject countless times and it just seems like a ford vs chev, ak vs ar subject matter, 6 of one half a dozen of the other. I would have assumed the 30-06 would have a far broader capability with all that extra cartridge space but people seem to say its not much different. Any ideas/thoughts that you have or calibres you may think are also worth a look would be appreciated. Thanks in advance |
Replies
@ 10:02 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: .308 vs. 30-06Hi Cameron, we have done three .30-06 rifles over the last year, each has proven to be very effective. Velocity gains are typically 150fps. This can be used as a means to reduce wind drift which is to my mind, the biggest enemy.I have found that the .30-06 is relatively simple to use out to 800 yards. I can connect with my first shot in winds of up to 12mph, out to a range of right on 1000 yards. But of course, this is my personal experience level. We are all at different phases of the journey. One of our readers from the UK is running a .30-06 AI. During the build, I wanted him to be realistic and budget on typical velocities- just incase the barrel was slow. But I think the rifle is going about 50fps faster than a standard .30-06 which is good. In this instance, that is a clear 200fps over my .308 hack rifle. But again, if you go the route of the AI, budget on standard .30-06 velocites, if you get extra, thats fine- but don't try to push it to the point of only getting 3 reloads per case with eventual disappointment setting in after the honey moon phase. A couple of things that are very important to note: The .308 generates extra velocity via extra free bore (gas expansion chamber). Bullet jump is typically 1.8 to 2.5mm (divide by 25.4 for imp). Modern .30-06 reamers have fairly short throats as opposed to the original rifles (1903) which would have been optimized for round nose bullets). Of the last three rifles we have done for clients, each had custom long throats duplicating the freebore of the .308. Furthermore, the .30-06 has a longer case neck- ideal for optimum bullet to bore concentricity where there is surplus free bore present. These rifles are all capable of driving the 208 grain A-max at 2600fps or higher without fuss. But at the same time, are able to give excellent accuracy and velocity with 178gr A-max bullets. For the long range rifles, I have opted for 1:10 twist semi varmint contour barrels 26" long for both velocity generation and recoil reduction. A medium contour 24" barreled rifle can make for a very good allrounder. So as you can see, the old .30-06 dog has a few tricks yet. There are no commercially available semi varmint or full varmint contour .30-06 rifles. This type of platform has to be custom built and although for many people this can seem daunting, the results can be spectacular. |
|
@ 01:07 am (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: .308 vs. 30-06Now I have to make an apology Cameron because after rereading your post, I see that you have mentioned that you are a relatively new shooter- and then I spout off a lot of info that is probably more confusing than of any help.For newer hunters, the .30-06 has both strengths and weaknesses. On typical factory rifle platforms and especially the popular Tikka T3, recoil of the .30-06 is pronounced. Slight discrepancies in shooting technique translate into poor shooting and wounded animals. Also, depending on where you are located, you may find that the .308Win is more fully supported regarding an assortment of factory loads at your local gun store. The .308 certainly tied a knot in the tail of the .30-06 some time ago and in many locations, only heavy blunt (poor BC / poor trajectory) .30-06 loads are available. In its favor, the .308 can be found in a range of factory ammo offerings, recoil is still high in ultra light weight rifles but not as hefty as the .30-06. I should mention that felt recoil from either is fine for a fit and healthy man, the recoil I am talking about is that which effects accuracy- that is all and yet it is a major concern, especially with new hunters. On top of ammo offerings are rifle configurations, the .308 is chambered in light through to heavy low recoiling long range factory rifles- take your pick. If you can find a .30-06 of a medium weight (even the Tikka laminate is a start), the .30-06 does offer a great deal of power with hand loads. The .30-06 offers plenty of power, reach and body weight versatility. As for me, well I can go either way. I have a .308 as a hack, I could have easily gone the way of the .30-06 and one day I would like to build a medium (not heavy) weight .30-06 all around rifle. In some ways the .308 is a Toyota, the .30-06 a classic 67 chev Impala- yet with both offerings costing the same off the shelf. |
|
@ 02:13 am (GMT) |
Cameron BoydRe: .308 vs. 30-06Thanks Nathan. No, all that information is valuable to me. Recoil is not an issue to me. except for with respect to accuracy, but practice makes perfect. I was sort of leaning toward the 06 (not exactly sure why... )how are they on throat wear compared to the 308, I like to shoot a lot and if they are a lot harder on barrels it could affect my decision. As for the platform ill basically be buying an action I like to work with, shoot the pants off it while I save up for a rebarrel in a heavier contour. Ill buy your bedding compound and bed it myself so this steers me away from tikkas and floating recoil lugs, it's a complication I don't think I'm ready to deal with to be honest. I have a rem 700 that was a dream to bed and it did the rifle wonders, any other action suggestions along the lines of easy bedding? I have a weatherby .270 that I haven't bedded yet both because I don't like the stock or the thin barrel, so I think I'll wait it out and see where I go with it but the action looks rather painless to bed. Anyway I think I'm going well off subject here so I leave it at that. But thanks for your words of wisdom thus far, as always very helpful. |
|
@ 05:09 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: .308 vs. 30-06If you hop over to the rifles general discussion page, you'll see a post regarding .308 barrel life which should help. Please have a read. There is not any great difference between barrel wear in the .308 versus .30-06. In the .308, it is common to use a fast burning powder (hot) at around 43.5gr and up to about 46.5gr. In the .30-06, slower burning powders are used in the region of 55-59 grains. So while the .308 gives much of its burn quickly (in or near the throat), the .30-06 uses more powder, but the burn is spread over more of the barrel.The M700 is certainly a good action to bed. The Howa/WBY is a little more complex but as you say, it is somewhat straight forwards. You could if you want to, mate a Boyds laminate stock to your rifle, adopt a .30-06 barrel of whatever contour you wish and see how you go. |
|
@ 05:35 am (GMT) |
Cameron BoydRe: .308 vs. 30-06Hi Nathan sorry for the tardy reply I have been busy with another passion of mine lately, fishing. But over the last week I've managed to score a sako L61R in 30-06 which I have decided to build as a project. I'm am going through old posts trying to pick up any information I can so as not to waste to much of your time repeating yourself as I'm sure you do quite often.But one question that has sprung to mind is can you put stainless barrels on carbon steel actions without them 'freezing' on do to metallurgical reactions I would prefer a stainless barrel coloured black to somewhat match the blued action, but not if it is going to cause an issue for future rebarreling. Just thought this may have been something you've dealt with in the past and could possibly shed some light |
|
@ 05:13 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: .308 vs. 30-06Hi Cameron, there is no resaction between Stainless and Chrome moly and we have put many stainless barrels on Sako's over the years. I don't muck around with painting the barrels black, just leave them be.If you want to have the barrel painted/coated, there is a lot to consider. It would be best to have the action blasted and re-blued rather than leave it polished blue. The blasted and blued action will match the coating (eg Milspec over a blasted barrel). The process I would use would be: Blast and re-blue action Re-barrel rifle bed rifle Paint barrel after bedding, mask off knox area so that no paint/coating goes onto this area and has no effect on bedding. The upper area of the action (above the wood) can be also be milspec coated at this time, if preferred. If you go the other way, paint first, then bed- there is always a risk of the paint becoming damaged during bedding. I have seen to many of these flaked paint ugly botch jobs come in to me after the process of coating (usually the action is coated too) then bedding. You'll need to explain this to whoever does the work as very few people give any thought to coatings relative to interactions with bedding. Actually, so far I have only met one smith who takes care to mask off bedding surfaces prior to coating metal work and he lives in Montana. The big question is- is the above worth the hassle just to match a finish. That is a personal question that only you can answer. |
Please wait
ABOUT USWe are a small, family run business, based out of Taranaki, New Zealand, who specialize in cartridge research and testing, and rifle accurizing.
|
KNOWLEDGEBASE |
KNOWLEDGEBASE |