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Dayton Traister speedlock misfiring

13 Feb 2015
@ 08:50 pm (GMT)

Nathan Foster

Hi all, just putting a note here for future DIY operators. If it sits for long enough, google crawlers will pick up on the key words and then when some poor sod is looking for help, they will be able to find it here.

For any of this work- wear safety glasses. Please wear safety glasses.

When fitting a Dayton traister speedlock (cock on opening) kit to a Swedish Mauser rifle, the system is reliant on the use of either the original trigger or the Dayton Traister trigger.

Some folk have complained that the Dayton Traister trigger is not as good as the Timney (eg rats tail spring failing long term). This is true of the early triggers- I had to remake a rats tail spring myself. But- if a Timney is fitted, the sear of the trigger sits further forwards than the other units, decreasing the main spring tension. When used in conjunction with the cock on opening kit (speed lock), the rifle will not fire with some ammo.

If the head space of the rifle is long and factory ammo is used, the ammo will just move forwards and the primer will not ignite when using the Timney trigger. Neck sized ammo will still ignite but this should not be considered a fix. The correct fix is to replace the trigger.

Further notes:

The Dayton Traister main spring should not touch the inner bolt body. If you feel the spring binding when assembling the bolt, the spring is too wide. Have this replaced with a 10.5mm diameter spring.

When trouble shooting misfires- make sure that the bolt body cocking piece cut out has been ground deep enough to allow the Dayton Traister cocking piece free travel.

Check firing pin protrusion and the shape of the tip of the firing pin. 55 thou or 1.4mm is the normal industry average goal for pin protrusion. But it is acceptable for the old military rifles to extend out to 65 thou 1.65mm or so. Tip shape should be nicely rounded.

The Timney low swing safety can be fitted in conjunction with the Dayton Traister Speedlock kit and trigger. If you look at the front of the safety unit (it looks like a pie chart cut out), I prefer to add a tiny chamfer on the front of the safety so that the safety becomes a 3 position unit. The middle position can then be used to field strip the bolt. The middle position should not be used as a hunting safety as it is not rock solid / safety is not designed for this position- warranty void.

If the Timney trigger is fitted to a Swede rifle along with the Dayton Traister speedlock- a further problem arises in that the Timney safety will not work. This is because safety cut out in the speedlock cocking piece will not align with the the safety cam lobe on the Timney safety- because again, the Timney trigger sear is set too far forwards. The fix is again- to replace the Timney with a Dayton Traister trigger. If the safety function is still too stiff, do not try to force the safety. Instead, file and sand smooth a very small chamfer on the cocking piece cut out (rear upper face).

A half cock can also be notched into the swede bolt at its upper most point in the cocking piece camming surface. Use a brand new triangular shaped needle file. Remove minimal material (use your thumbnail as a file guide), then check for function. Minimal material removal is the key.

When changing bolt handles in the Swede- make sure a gas diffuser is used with your tig torch. If you do not have a gas diffuser, make one from white scotchbrite. The gas diffuser is imperative otherwise the weld will coke and ruin your day- pin holes that won't go away. Set post heat and post flow for a good measure of time. You will see gold dots in the pool (look almost like tungsten inclusion) boiling in the pool. These will pin hole without a diffuser, post heat and post flow. Use a good (but not huge) V prep to avoid a shallow weld and potential breakage. Set amps at 60, use standard PZ 6500 wire. Oil quench on final run or allow to cool. Watch bolt body temps- but generally, there is little heat transfer to the bolt body and critical lugs.

Sorry, I have no pics for all of this work at this time. Will have to try and remember to take pics next time.

Below photo shows half cock notch for stalking. Note also the ground out camming surface for the Dayton Traister cocking piece (use a dremel and course cutting disc- make sure the final finish is polished).

Key search words:

Dayton Traister misfires, Dayton Traister hangfires, Dayton Traister rifle won't fire, Swedish Mauser misfires, 93 Mauser misfires. Dayton Traister rifle won't fire, troubleshooting Dayton Traister.


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