@ 07:01 pm (GMT)
If you look at Bens picture above you can see the pillars protruding from the stock that will fit up flush against the washers located in the plastic trigger guard.
I have done similar is the Boyd's stock but have used a machined feral that fits into the plastic guard then bedded them into the stock, l also machined flat seat rather than tapered action screws.
The problem lies with the original tapered screws pulling into and possibly through the unsupported thin washers in the guard. Classic Tikka problem if over torqued!
I think I understand now. I'm preparing to bed my Tikka T3 barreled action in a Tom Manners stock. I'm going to bed 9/16" pillars into the stock first. Then I'm going to bed the action and the first inch or so of the barrel into the stock in a second step.
I've read Nathan's instructional articles for the Tikka T3s in the Knowledge articles, which has been very helpful, in addition to this thread.
However I think I'm going to order one of these Atlasworxs aluminum trigger guards, and I'll wait until I receive it before I bed the pillars, so I can decide on the best approach with the pillars, trigger guard, and action screws. I hope this aluminum trigger guard is designed to use flat head action screws rather than tapered action screws. But I suspect they'll be tapered head action screws, since they're advertising simply unscrew the original and replace with their aftermarket trigger guard. Once I receive their trigger guard, I'll know for sure, and can then get my pillars bedded to the proper depth on the bottom of the stock.
After I receive this aluminum bottom metal, I'll post again and let you all know what it looks like for fit and quality. Probably won't receive it until the end of December though.