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> Sako A7 Roughtech
Sako A7 Roughtech
@ 04:07 pm (GMT) |
David LandwehrIs there anything I can do to stabilise the forend of the roughtech stock. It's quite flexible, although I don't think it touches the barrel, but there are no open pockets to fill with stock stabiliser like in a tikka lite. |
Replies
@ 12:32 pm (GMT) |
Daniel SchindlerRe: Sako A7 RoughtechHi David. Probably best to let Nathan reply for me here. However, Tikka makes an e/z add-on accessory for your fore-end - widening it substantially. I added it and LOVE it. I could very well be wrong but I believe it effectively helps my Roughtech be more accurate. Also added the accessory "grip." Just my .02. Cheers. |
@ 06:10 am (GMT) |
Scott StruifRe: Sako A7 RoughtechHi David. If you’re concerned it might be touching, you could smear some grease in the barrel channel, test fire it from all possible field positions, then examine the barrel. It would be easy to sand some material from anywhere it’s touching. |
@ 08:06 am (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Sako A7 RoughtechHi David and others, the following should be noted to avoid confusion.The Sako A7 Roughtec features a Bell & Carlson stock made from fiberglass with an ali chassis. The chassis runs through the forend. The Tikka Roughtec features a plastic stock (no chassis) with a 'Bell & Carlson lookalike' finish. Most stocks will display some measure of flexing, even with a good degree of reinforcing, simply due to the very long area. Provided the stock does not contact the barrel, the main issue with flexing is that it can place the system under stress somewhat like a drawn bow limb, having a detrimental effect on accuracy due to differences in stress from shot to shot. The simple fix, is to try to not place the system under stress - i.e., when shooting prone in the field - use a backpack, not a bipod. But of course many of us would still prefer to minimize any potential issues regardless of how the rifle is rested when shooting. If the stock is hollow plastic, I would normally recommend stabilizing but as I have stated in the stabilizing instructions, a main function of this is to provide a bedding surface so that one can apply bedding compound which then ties everything in. Bedding is the key. David, your glass stock does not need any filling. It is also rigid enough for accurate shooting as is, provided it is not used with a bipod. The flexing is besides the point anyway, the rifle is relatively light and a bipod will simply create more bounce, regardless of forend stress. You could set about bedding the rifle if you really want to. Bedding 1 inch into the barrel channel will remove most of the flex and likely improve accuracy as a result of the superior receiver fit. Having said this, you must understand that bedding the A7 B&C stock is rather complicated (I believe I wrote about this in Rifles - second edition), requiring removal of some of the chassis material. You must therefore decide how much you like this rifle. If it is a true pet rig that you absolutely enjoy walking with and shooting then sure, it may be worth putting time into it, But if on the other hand it is merely an OK rifle, perhaps lacking in magazine length (for hand loading), then most definitely leave it as is. Hope that helps a bit. |
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@ 11:51 pm (GMT) |
David LandwehrRe: Sako A7 RoughtechThanks for the replies.I like the rifle. It's easy to carry and shows potential at the range. It's in 308W and the way the gun laws are going in WA it's going to be too difficult to replace. So I guess that makes it a keeper. So far it seems to like 150gr pills, but that may well be me not controlling the recoil with heavier loads. I still have work to do on my technique. I might go to the effort of bedding and dropping in a recoil lug, aka, tikka style. I've successfully bedded a couple of tikkas and think I have my head around the surgery required on the Sako roughtec stock to achieve it. Thanks all. Davo. |
@ 03:30 am (GMT) |
Tim LuteRe: Sako A7 RoughtechKinda late to the party but I have one in .270 Win. After tuning the trigger, I made sure recoil lug on barrel was seated back into the lug bed and centered the barrel in the stock. Torque action screws properly and then to the range. The clearance between barrel and stock on mine is more than adequate for any minor flex IMO. I have found this rifle very accurate and easy to carry. I too prefer a backpack instead of bipod in the field. Uneven terrain etc. makes a bipod too hard to "set up". As a side note I have a load that groups very well and hits like a hammer. Win. case and primer w/58.5 gr. H4350. Barnes ttsx 110 gr. loaded out to 3.30. This is close to max but for whatever reason groups got better as velocity increased. |
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@ 02:04 am (GMT) |
David LandwehrRe: Sako A7 RoughtechAfter trying 9 different projectiles over 2 different powders with 3 different primers, including srp palma brass, I have finally found an issue. I kept trying different loads as the 150gr sako loads consistently grouped better than my hand loads.Two weeks back I pulled the scope and mounts to find a loose front rail. Bugger. I kept checking action screws scope mounts and everything was tight. The loose rail wasn't visible due to scope stiffness and a solid rear mount but once the mounts were removed it was quite obvious. I've yet to get back to the range but I'm very hopeful of beating the 3/4" groups from the sako loads. Why did the sako loads shoot better, I'm putting it down to them being lower powered than my hand loads. I'll report back when we have some weekend days below 40C in Perth. The weather has been brutal of late. |
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