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> Sako A7
Sako A7
@ 03:13 am (GMT) |
Michael BlackwoodHi Nathan & others,I have ordered the Stock Stabilizer and Bedding kits, watched your videos and read your bedding instructions several times. All of your instructions seem quite clear. Do you have any specific advice regarding the A7? Such as whether or not a front & rear bedding job is OK or should I bed the whole action? My A7 is a stainless 308 which has had issues, which for the most part I have been able to attribute to the scope bases coming loose. I have replaced the aluminium bases with steel, bedded them with JB Weld and Loktited the base screws. I do not reload but try to buy quality ammunition. How would you rate the Barnes Vor TX 168gr for Sambar Deer? Is there any other ammunition you may recommend for this type of rifle? Thanks, Mike. |
Replies
@ 04:16 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Sako A7 beddingHi Mike, you can full length bed the A7. Have a look at the photo below.
The most critical area is the recoil lug. The front face must have 100% metal to metal contact, the rear and top face need to be relieved. In the photos below, I use used electrical tape to gain relief and wedge the lug in place. But I have not shown the use of araldite (two pot syringe fast cure epoxy). I use this epoxy to secure the lug in place. You must make sure none of this epoxy seeps forwards onto the front face. Take your time with the lug set up. When prepping the stock, make sure there is plenty of room for the lug to go down without it being bumped out of place. Note how I have pre-prepped release agent on the action where the lug is going to sit- before fitting the lug into the action. 
Once you have the action and lug prepped along with the headless screw in place, apply your release agent. You can apply release agent to the lug if you want to- or leave it bare. Either way it will end up permanently affixed within the bedding. A few minutes prior to dropping the action into the mortice, it is best to paint compound into the gap between the front headless screw and the recoil lug. If you do not do this, there will most likely be a large air bubble in this area, the compound simply cannot be expected to fill this small gap. You will see what I mean as you put the action down into the mortice. So be sure to paint a bit of compound into the gap between the screw and the lug. It will try and slump but it only has to be in place of a minute or two as you are about to put the action into the mortice. While you are at it, you can paint compound onto the action at the right angles (either side of the letter S). Change the angle from a right angle to a 45 degree bevel. This will also help compound migration. I usually use a cotton bud for painting, I cut off the bud so that I have a quill. I am very careful not to scratch up my release agent. Be sure to watch the 17 minute tips and tricks video, especially regarding release agent application, height referencing. Glad you posted, I have emailed these instructions to individual clients more times than I can remember now. |
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@ 06:35 am (GMT) |
Michael BlackwoodRe: Sako A7Hi Nathan,Thanks very much. This is the sort of information I might only have realized by making a mistake. Mike. |
@ 08:56 pm (GMT) |
Scott SmithRe: Sako A7Hi i also have a question regarding stabilizing and bedding the A7.Do you leave the for-stock pressure points alone or remove ? Im asking as I Broke front swivel area of old stock one day after 7 years of use with bipod. bought a cheap genuine replacement off trademe only to find original owner had removed the pressure points! Is it worth the risk to go ahead or would I be better off repairing old stock? Any help of previous experiences much appreciated! Cheers-Scott |
@ 07:05 am (GMT) |
Chris MurphyRe: Sako A7Hi Scott when bedding and stabilising the barrel wants to be free floated except for the knox which you will bedAnd Michael the Barnes ammo you mentioned will not be ideal I have had good results with Hornady America white tail ammo in 308 |
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@ 07:57 am (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Sako A7Hi Scott, as Chris said, the barrel should be floated.Yours is not the only stock to break in this area, it is a weak point of the A7. The new stock will be strong with the stablizer fill, although I don't generally recommend a bipod on guns of this weight. Ordinarily, the pressure points are left in place (height ref point) while you bed the rifle, then removed afterwards. But it really makes no difference. Just make sure that you have a good inlet for bedding so that the action can come down onto the ref points (barrel channel dam etc) and that other compound can escape from around the lug etc, allowing the action to go right down into the mortice to its correct depth. The Tikka bedding vids give a good overview of this subject (see video learning). |
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