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Re: Accurizing a savage weather warrior w/ accustock

09 Aug 2018
@ 08:24 am (GMT)

Nathan Foster

Hi Dirk, on the Savage, you need to dscern whether the bore is producing high copper fouling or very little fouling. If the fouling is high, use the methods in the acurizing book and or the Rem 700 troubleshooting vid to work the bore into shape. If there is very little fouling as can happen with some Savage rifles, it may be dimensionally unsound. You are going to have to get past the hype of Savage shooters (I get the occasional fanatical email from them) and see this for what it is.

The Accustocks can be harmonically flawed. The surface contact area of the stock is very small, the action riding on bars. The locking mechanism can simply pinch the action in place. Use the 1oclock test in book 1, rifles. I have also gone over this in the Rem troubleshooting vid. You may need to consider mock bedding / rigid mounting to dampen vibrations. Please do not bed the rifle at this stage as there are too many unknowns. At this stage, we need to reduce variables.

Please pay close attention to the table of contents in the Accurizing book as this is the order of the steps that you need to take. The Rem video was made in the same manner- just follows the TOC so that we get ourselves into good methods, a set procedure. The same goes for issues such as the locking lugs, just follow the steps given.

You are on the right track, keep at it. Key factors- Remove the stock as a variable (eliminate harmonic issues) so that you can isolate and focus on the bore. As for bullet jump, you need to work this out for yourself based on the individual chamber. The same goes for powder charges. If the bore is loose on this rifle, you may end up way over book maximum but you will need to let the rifle and brass talk to you. If I was to advise you that hey, a common sweet spot is 72gr H1000 behind the 162gr ELD-M with an OAL of 3.425", that could work, or it could just completely blow your gun to bits and put you in hospital. I have no idea of your individual chamber dimensions based on the reamer that was used on the day, the bore dimensions, the calibration of your scales or the brand of brass you are using. Hence why the manuals are so cautious and why nobody here will give load advice as they are each working to the individual specs of their rifles.

As an aside, recently I purchased a new .44 Magnum. I have done all of my .44 research but now that I am putting my data together, its good to go back over a rifle and spend some final time in the field with it. So I purchased a new lever action. All of you are familiar with gun reviews. You all see the writers talk about how the gun arrived, what it looked like, bla bla. A few might pull it apart, take a photo or two and then back together again. But otherwise, its just obtain the rifle, give the bore a clean, throw on a scope and shoot. I just don't know how folk do this. Even on a little .44 Marlin, it took me some days to set it up because I didn't want it ending up like the other .44's I have had to work on locally, arriving back from the field orange with rust beneath the wood. So I pulled the gun down into its basic components, I greased everything. I applied teak oil to the thirsty wood which then swelled and would not reassemble. So following that, I had to refit the wood and while I was at it, I bedded the forend tip at the cap. Now it all fits together without the same risk of cross threading any screws from forcing the forend into place as Marlin staff members had done. It took a great deal of time to get the rifle set up. Next is the bore, checking to see how it fouls and so forth. By the time I am done, the rifle will be shooting as well as I can get it, the steel will last as long as I can make it and if the rifle ever has to be moved on, the next owner will hopefully not receive a lemon. I now also know this particular rifle inside and out. The point is, my prep work is exponentially longer than my range sessions.


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