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> Bedding fiberglass stocks
Bedding fiberglass stocks
@ 05:14 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterFrom a youtube query:Nathan, I've bedded a few rifles myself and enjoyed your videos very much, but had a couple questions. 1) It wasn't clear how you created volume in the "plasticine" under the chamber in front of the recoil lug. Did you seat the action and then depress the plasticine further to create volume? 2) You used the rotary surface grinder across the top of the action recess to clean up the hardened bedding. Didn't that pose a significant risk of gouging into the stock material? 3) What is the plasticine product? I've used kids' PlayDough for similar purpose. |
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@ 05:21 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Bedding fiberglass stocksHi ....., glad you enjoyed the videos. They are ofcourse, very short and don't go into the level of detail that I would like to go into, primarily because of upload speeds to youtube.OK, if you go to the site and go to the bedding compound instructions, you'll see how I do the front dam. But basically- yes, make a rough mold, then push the barrel into the mold, reshape, trial fit, reshape, trial fit. You'll need a lube on the dam to stop it coming out with the barrel each time you trial fit it. I use graphite but lee wax lube is fine too. Apply some to the barrel and some to the dam. When sanding/discing wood, plastic or laminate stocks, it does not matter if some of the material from the top line of the stock is removed. This can easily be resealed if it is wood or laminate (use teak oil). When discing or sanding the top line of a fiberglass stock, the top coat of paint will often be removed. Steph and I debate this often. If you clean the compound right up before the compound tacks right off, there is sometimes a risk of suck backs (new users) or simply getting the height of the compound wrong with low spots. I find that that I can clean up the bead to to a point where it is very close to perfect- but it is never perfect. I use electrical tape on the top line of the stock and you can snad to the tape, then peel the tape off. But there will always be an edge (5 thou step) where the tape was peeled off. Steph says that its a lot of mucking around for a less than ideal finish so she gets the variable speed disc out, low speed, stick it discs, Steph discs the top line, then repaints it. I have since adopted this approach. This is how we have done most of the glass stocks for the last few years. An Auto body paint shop can supply paint in both epoxy or enamel form. The top line is easy to paint and is a low wear area so its no big deal. Learning to do spiderweb finishes is a bit more of a challenge. I have seen one client gouge into a stock through not having experience with a grinder. The top line was easily rectified and repainted. On the HS and B&C stocks, if ali tape is used to protect the top line (so as to avoid having to disc), the glue on the tape can be so strong as to pull hunks/chips of paint away with it, especially around the tang at the area of the safety (for some reason). So again, it can be better to apply electrical tape, disc to the tape, then disc through the tape gently (or pull the tape away and hand sand the last 5 thou), then repaint. We supply Jovi plastercine with the kits. You have to be a bit careful about brands. I once tried a cheap brand but it melted (too much oil) under post heat and mixed with the compound- awful! OK, below is an example of a painted top line (.308 M700 SPS mated to B&C #2958 stock): 
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