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> Copper Fouling
Copper Fouling
@ 11:07 am (GMT) |
Grant HarrisHi All :)Long time listener first time caller. And apologies for the long into. I hope it makes sense. I've got a Browning A-bolt in .270 caliber and when I purchased it second hand it looked like the barrel was quite fouled from the muzzle. So I started to clean it etc by using slip2000 copper cutter. Now my patches started coming out clean but the muzzle still had alot of copper in it, but thought that a clean patch wouldn't lie so left it. It got the better of me because the rifle started to not shot quite right so I bought some Boretech eliminator and after a few hours of cleaning I had a pretty clean barrel :) (Before using any copper cutter/cleaner I've always used hoppes no9 to get the powder out first). So I ran some reloads through it and after a flyer it shot just under a moa at 100yds so was happy. I didn't stay happy for long because my next 2 groups were not good at all and the muzzle was all copper fouled again from around only 12 shots fired :( went home and cleaned again which took a few hours and decided after reading the barrel brake in article to try some autosol to take any imperfections out and get it really clean. After a few swipes I could see the patch was pretty black and I know my barrel was super clean before using it. Anyway, cleaned the auto sol out and went back to the bush to shot some more paper and I got the exact same results from last week. A flyer and then 3 just under a group and the others not so good and a very copper fouled barrel. The rifle is a wood/blue combo. Early a-bolt model - 1991. The guy said he'd fired 200 rounds (so lets say 300), i've fired another 150 or so. So thats around 500. I don't really want to purchase a new barrel as thats going to cost just over the $800 mark but what else can I do? Once cleaned the rifling looks good, the only part that doesent is where it has copper fouled and it looks scratchy. Any help/direction would be awesome :) Thanks Grant |
Replies
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@ 03:26 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Copper FoulingHi Grant, I have covered these types of topics in the new book.There is a very high possibility that your rifle has at some stage, suffered from overnight rusting, a very light, barely perceptable corrosion that was enough to rough the bore up, causing the now severe fouling. This is something I see quite often. However, without the rifle on my bench I can only guess. There may be a malformed land or burr, it always hard to say. But thank you for the detailed description. You describe 'several hours' cleaning which is good as it lets me know what we are dealing with, I am well familiar with these types of episodes. You are pretty much heading towards 'last ditch' efforts which will either revive the bore or destroy accuracy altogether. High pressure fire lapping is the next step if your hand lapping procedures do not work. You still have a little way to go with hand lapping. The autosol is 1200 grit breaking down to 2000 grit during polishing. You need to be down around 240 grit. Therefore, please follow the barrel break in article using the full method starting with maroon scotchbrite. If you can find grey 600 grit scotchbrite, follow with this, then autosol / soft rag. When you shoot, I want you to shoot over a lightly oiled barrel. You can use Kroil or on the cheap, use CRC or WD40, just a very light coating that will not hydraulic the bore. If the rifle does not respond to any or all of your efforts, I recomend you read my book before doing anything further. Sorry for the hard sell but I think other posters will agree. |
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@ 10:43 pm (GMT) |
Grant HarrisRe: Copper FoulingHi Nathan,Thanks very much for your reply - no hard sell at all :) I've had my eye on your book for awhile so it could just be an early christmas pressie to myself (or the wife!!) I'll give the barrel another going over. Thanks, Grant |
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@ 02:05 am (GMT) |
jason brownRe: Copper Foulinghey nathan, have you used eezox to shoot over, instead of kroil or wd40.would you recomend it? |
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@ 02:47 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Copper FoulingHi Jason, no I have not used Eezox. It does look good, would be well worth testing if you can get a bottle direct.I have used Militech 1 in the past, that has been very good, it forms a bond with the bore. But according to the reviews/research on Eezox, Eezox may offer better corrosion resistance when in the field and becuase it forms a dry film, won't run, does not need heat activation. I just wish Eezox would provide a bit more info on what the product actually contains. They are right in saying that a flammable product (like CRC etc) will be gone / lose its properties in a few shots, that is certainly true. As I suggested, products like CRC or WD40 are rough and ready bore conditioners with limited performance. I know some competitive shooters use CRC long life but a bonding lubricant (like Militech) is much better to shoot over- if it can be obtained. |
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@ 12:22 am (GMT) |
jason brownRe: Copper Foulingi seen some corrosion tests and it looked good.so i got some from a n.z website easy enough. www.workshopinnovation.co.nz/proddetail.asp?prod=EezoxAerosol7oz I've decieded to use it on my new barrel, depending on your thoughts. i emailed the guy, he said use eezox and thats it. he says not even a copper remover. but i dont know about that. i probabley will, but use eezox after to help with corrosion. he says no need to swab or patch it out before shooting. |
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@ 01:35 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Copper FoulingWhether or not to use a copper solvent as well as Eezox is straight forwards. If the bore copper fouls, a solvent will be needed. If it does not foul, it won't- or will only need defouling once in a while. Each barrel is unique. |
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@ 10:21 pm (GMT) |
jason brownRe: Copper Foulingi used the eezox today, it didnt seem to do very well removing powder and copper.but i dont mind, i brought it to use as a lube to protect from corrosion and to shoot over. a final step in cleaning. |
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