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> Tikka T3 Lite - horizontal stringing after stock removal
Tikka T3 Lite - horizontal stringing after stock removal
@ 09:54 pm (GMT) |
Nick DI have a plastic-stocked Tikka T3 lite in 30-06 which was shooting 100m sub-MOA groups with the Barnes 130gr TTSX. Bedding is untouched. I removed the stock after a wet hunt, dried, lubed and carefully reassembled making sure the action re-engaged correctly with the recoil lug. I progressively torqued up the screws toward the recommended 35"/lbs but felt the forward action screw "give" and/or the captive washer in the trigger guard move. Either way it never felt like it was progressively tightening and I didn't want to keep pressing on. So it's currently at about 25"/lbs which is actually tighter than the screws were from factory (I marked the original screw position).Well, it's now horizontally stringing (3-shot groups of 2"-2.5") with the same loads that produced round 3-shot .75" - 1" groups. I've read some of the back threads on the T3 regards bedding etc but would just like to try to get back to the previous consistency of grouping without getting involved in re-bedding the rifle. This isn't a long range rig. Any suggestions? I'm thinking I'm getting some stock movement and that the action screws need to be further tightened, but the feel is very unlike tightening screws on a pillar-bedded rifle for example. Feels like I'm crushing something (distorting the washer?). My recoil lug has some distinct impressions on it from the receiver cut out. I have a stainless replacement lug on hand...worth replacing? |
Replies
@ 10:41 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Tikka T3 Lite - horizontal stringing after stock removalBugger.The factory setting should have been around 35 inch-lb. 25 is not quite secure enough and could invariably lead to the same stringing under high recoil. Or it would simply allow the screws to become looser in the field unless loctite is employed. It also allows more movement at the lug, would really bash it around. In either case, once you feel this, you can be assured that the bottom plastic is coming to grief. Check the bottom plastic and washer closely to see if there is any damage. If not, consider pillar bedding (or even just pillars in the manner shown in the Tikka bedding thread). If the bottom plastic is damaged, consider replacing with aftermarket alloy. Very annoying, I really feel for you. |
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@ 10:49 pm (GMT) |
Nathan FosterRe: Tikka T3 Lite - horizontal stringing after stock removalSeems almost as if the torque wrench is not calibrated dead on. If its a FAT wrench, there should be paperwork showing actual versus dial readings. Could have been wrench error but in either case, plastic is not exactly an ultra reliable choice for trigger guards. Such things do happen from time to time.The larger pity is that if you asked Beretta NZ for help, they would most likely ask you to bend over first before they give you your answer. |
@ 02:23 am (GMT) |
Martin TaylorRe: Tikka T3 Lite - horizontal stringing after stock removalIt's a shame all the great design work is undone by such a poor retaining system, an all to common failure that allows the action to climb up under recoil as you suspect. it is just a thin, crappy, mild steel washer, at a very minimum they could use a thicker one!!Once the captive washer in the plastic has started deforming it will continue to have that spring feel when tightening as it yields to the torque. Possibly a support spacer could be made & placed/glued in the void between it & the stock to stop any further deforming? The Alloy aftermarket guard would be the easiest fix as Nathan has said. Great rifles with such a silly design flaw............ |
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@ 11:04 pm (GMT) |
Nick DugganRe: Tikka T3 Lite - horizontal stringing after stock removalThanks Nathan and Martin for your insightful replies.I'll pull out the trigger guard assembly and check it carefully. I totally agree about the retaining system: the idea of a flimsy washer being mated with a tapered screw - inevitable that it will be deformed into a cone. And so easy to have remedied this at the design stage. It's a decent torque screw driver http://wiha.co.nz/index.php?route=product/product&path=291_298&product_id=1069 (I'll recheck the paperwork but I don't recall any actual vs dial calibration). Anyway I'll look into this as well, but it was more the feel that alarmed me. And I see some people are tightening these to 55"/lbs! I'll report back...but I'm thinking the suggestion of the aftermarket alloy unit might be the best fix. However the spacer idea is certainly worth looking at if the washer and plastic surround aren't damaged. |
@ 02:14 am (GMT) |
Ben LawRe: Tikka T3 Lite - horizontal stringing after stock removali think its atlasworxs who makes the replacement bottom metal.there is no way you could tighten the screws to 55in lb without modification. i know a fella that must have overtightened the screws, he had the rifle attatched to a sling one day and the screws pulled through the washers and the barrel, action and scope fell out of the stock onto the ground! |
@ 01:50 pm (GMT) |
Bryan WebsterRe: Tikka T3 Lite - horizontal stringing after stock removalThis is the reason that I am a fan of tossing the T3 stock and putting the T3 action and barrel into a Bell & Carlson stock with the full length aluminum bedding block. No loss of that rifle's accuracy in doing so, plus the B&C stock is is a big improvement to shoot, has zero flex for use of a bipod or off a backpack.Certainly a tad extra in price however. |
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@ 10:13 pm (GMT) |
Ben LawRe: Tikka T3 Lite - horizontal stringing after stock removalBryan, have you bedded a t3 in a b&c stock?I assume the best way of doing it is probably to grind out the lug in the stock and fit a separate lug during bedding like a standard t3 bedding job. |
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@ 12:05 am (GMT) |
Bryan WebsterRe: Tikka T3 Lite - horizontal stringing after stock removalYes I have done 7 of them since joining this site by following the books as well as the posted photos and steps.A fair amount of work and I still was left with the feeling I did not like the stock as much as the B&C stocks. Besides I can afford either so love to do both, finding I shoot the B&C stock equipped ones far more and have sold off three of the ones with the T3 Lite stocks even though they were sub 1/2 moa rifles. I did not really like doing the rather unconventional bedding of the T3 very much as I am used to doing Remington, Winchester and Mauser bolt actions. Have been toying with the idea of putting a T3X Super Varmint barrelled action I have into a chassis next. |
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@ 12:10 am (GMT) |
Bryan WebsterRe: Tikka T3 Lite - horizontal stringing after stock removalThat should have read a Super Varmint T3 not T3X. I have been trying to read all I can get on their new ones...have only found out they will be available at our local outlet some time around late August or early September. Hence they weigh heavy on my mind still. |
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@ 02:51 am (GMT) |
Ben LawRe: Tikka T3 Lite - horizontal stringing after stock removalBryan, have you bedded a "t3" into a "bell and carlson" stock? Or have you just bolted them all straight togeather? |
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@ 06:26 am (GMT) |
Bryan WebsterRe: Tikka T3 Lite - horizontal stringing after stock removalMost are straight drop-in, and go shoot and work up a load.Two so far caused a bit of fuss. I removed a thin layer of the entire aluminum block where the action would touch it and used a thin layer of Devcon Putty to provide a more accurate fit and did a basic bedding job with very little pressure used- just a but of surgical tubing. Both rifles now shoot a lot better but one is still a tiny bit less accurate than the others that had no need to fit so i assume they needed more attention to other details but they are still both shooting sub MOA. Those jobs did not take long but still, I followed Nathan's method in general. As well, it still makes me sweat a bit when I think something should work and proves a mild disappointment as those fussy ones. I always check the fit very carefully to see if I can see small potential issues like a bit of paint or a bump where it should be smooth etc. My son's rifle was a case of drop in in and go shoot 1/4 to 1/2 inch five shot groups depending on conditions. He was ecstatic. (groups were with Speer 180 grain SPBT in his 300WSM) I have done the same with some HS Precision stocks when bedding Remingtons too and have observed significant improvements on most when done. I have a 700P LTR in .308 Win I did this too. Its action was tuned by a skilled smith first and still did not shoot how I expected so bedded as above and now on a dead calm day with decent light, I can coax 3/8 inch groups using 168 gr A-MAX as well as 175 gr Tipped Sierra Matchings |
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