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Bedding tips and tricks

Written by Nathan Foster on July 19th, 2013.      3 comments

Hi guys, just a note to say that I have uploaded another bedding video with tips and tricks. The video can be found in the rifle bedding tutorial (Knowledge base) or on my youtube channel (Nathan Foster).

All the best.


Rick says ...
I had missed the significance of the pencil line on the action on my first viewing of the video. That would cover the question, wouldn't it?

I have a lovely Ruger M77 in .223 with a blonde laminate stock. The next step in my pursuit of accuracy is to have the rifle bedded, or do it myself. I'll watch your video series a couple more times as I ponder which way to go.

Thanks again.
Nathan says ...
Hi Rick, in the written instructions, I suggest a pencil linbe be run around the action where it meets the stock to mark the correct height.

Depending on the brand of rifle, the height can be critical because it can effect magazine operation or assembly- again dsicussed in the online instructions. An example of a height critical job is the Mauser action. That said, the Mauser is not so critical that .001 of an inch matters. There is a good 20 thou operating range, the job becoming potentially compromised at around 1 to 1.5mm (40 to 60 thou) gap between the mag box and action. Other actions like the M700 and Howa /Vanguard along with the older Sako rifles, are not so critical.

But from the perspective of the action being skewed up or down- if this occurs, it does not effect accuracy on its own. If the action is skewed up slightly, it can change the pitch of the stock towards a more optimum pitch for recoil absorption, but the differences are negligible.

If the action is skewed down, it may, after reassembly, come to rest on the the magazine box rather than its bedding which is a huge no-no.

Bedding to pillars would seem the easy fix but in the case of the Sendero in the first videos, you will see that the pillars are already countersunk into the chassis. To this end, we have to rely on our own basic observations of the job.

In worst case scenarios, rifles can be re-bedded. But again, basic observation and awareness are all that is needed.
Rick says ...

I thoroughly enjoyed your article, with accompanying videos, with respect to bedding the rifle action. I have one immediate question that come to mind.

You suggest leaving a small portion unground (i.e. original) at the tang, however, it seems everything else, pillars, stock, etc., gets ground to some degree (<1.5 mm) so as to provide an adequate to good thickness of bedding compound that will not become brittle and break. This would, therefore, leave a small portion of the tang as the only unmodified (i.e. ground) part of the stock relative to the action.

However, if everything is ground, how to do you ensure that the result of grinding on the interior of the stock is not going to result in the action becoming bedded at an angle to the stock? My understanding is that the only points of reference for bedding are the relict tang material and the plasticine "dams". If the dams are too large, the front of the action will be skewed upward relative to the stock. If the dams are too small, the action will be skewed downward.

Since the amount of material removed should be approximately 1.5 mm, is my question irrelevant?


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